Thursday, July 18, 2013

Northwest Anatolia

     Back in April we took a road trip through a less-traveled area of Turkey, the region between Istanbul and Ankara, the old stomping grounds of the Lydians and Phrygians, as well as the location of important battles in the Turkish War of Independence.
     We stayed only for a few hours in Eskişehir, which has a decent riverwalk area and substantial market.  Spending two nights in Kütahya and one in Afyonkarahisar, we explored Roman, Phrygian, and Lydian sites, as well as monuments on the location of critical battles in the Turkish war for independence.  This part of the Anatolian plateau is particularly notable for decisive victories for the Turks against the Greeks, in which Atatürk and other military leaders like İsmet İnönü achieved legendary status. Also, Kütahya is the source of most of the ceramics made in Turkey.  We also saw the ancient city of Gordion (where Alexander the Great cut the Gordion knot) on the way to Ankara, where we visited our friend Sarah.  We also spent a day in Beypazarı, a day-trip destination for Ankara residents, where we could take in the well-preserved Ottoman architecture and traditional food. Check out the photos!

A statue of Cengiz Topel in Eskişehir.  He was the first Turkish fighter pilot to be shot down and killed in combat, over Cyprus in 1964.  He is well-known in Turkey, and streets are named after him in several cities.
A temple at the old Greek and Roman city of Aezani, one of the best-preserved in the world.

All of the modern painted ceramics and tiles in Turkey come from Kütahya, hence this pretty cool fountain in the middle of town.

At the site of the military headquarters where Atatürk commanded Turkish forces in a decisive battle during the campaign to drive the Greeks out of Anatolia during the War of Independence.  Emily and Paul were both excited for some military history.
Here's how it all went down back in 1922.  Turks are in blue and Greeks are in red, which could be confusing for some.
                              At Dumlupınar, another battlefield monument.                          A statue of Atatürk (yes, naked) victorious over
                                                                                                                                   the enemy (read: Greek), in Afyonkarahisar.


Emily looking victorious herself after climbing up to the castle in Afyon.

We visited Midas Şehri (city), which featured the remaining wall of a Phrygian temple carved into the rocks, plus formations and carved-out dwellings that reminded us of Cappadocia.


The Tumulus of Midas in Gordion, where the king was buried with a bunch of treasure in a wooden chamber, which was then buried under this man-made mound, over 50 meters high.
Beypazarı is known for carrots.  We went on a holiday, and many street vendors were offering carrot juice.  It tastes like liquid carrots.


Sometimes I think the frame will be narrower, hence the leaning.

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